The Cornell Lab Bird Academy › Discussion Groups › Bird Photography with Melissa Groo › Practice Matching Your Gear to Your Goals
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Bird AcademyBird AcademyWhat goals did you set for yourself? What gear do you need to make that happen? Share in the discussion below.You must be enrolled in the course to reply to this topic.
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"You can manage your settings for receiving notifications when someone replies to your post on the Edit Profile page."
Getting notifications is not the issue. Responding is the issue. -
Really dislike using this discussion board. It's difficult responding even when electing to respond to a notification of a response to my post. To respond I have to login then return to the discussion board to find the section I posted in then scroll to try to find the response I I received. Sometimes I cannot find it.
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I really dislike this discussion board. Even though I have "stay logged in" enabled when I select the link in the notification email of a response to my post I still have to sign in to get ability to reply and then I have scroll the entire list to find the post again. What a pain. Even though CLBA (CornellLab Bird Academy) says they used to allow stay logged in they had issues so they don't allow it. I subscribe and participate in many discussion type boards like this one and none of them are as difficult to use as this one. Surely as sophisticated as CLBA is with it's unparalleled BirdWise ID and Merlin ID they're discussion board could be better.
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Melissa Groo, you never mentioned using a monopod. Do you never use a monopod? Wimberley has introduced a Monopod Gimbal head MH-100. Have you tried using it and what do you think of using a monopod with and without a monopod gimbal such as the MH-100?
I am 74 now and I have Sony's 400-800mm F6.3-8 G OSS super telephoto lens. I find hand holding that lens up to the sky impossible for me for more than 10 seconds.
Have ever tried shooting through an open suv sunroof?-
I've heard good things about the Wimberley unit, but it is pricey for what it is. I've seen a few birders using it in the field and it looks promising. I've been considering the Weyllan PH3 unit, which is very similar but a lot more cheaper. Gets great reviews too. I have a Really Right Stuff carbon fibre monopod, but rarely use it myself. I do prefer to handhold wherever possible, although I hope to start using my gimbal more when I get a Groundpod II.
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@David Thanks for responding. This course is so old now I was afraid no one was reading the discussions still.
I've never heard of the Weyllan PH3. Did a search on B&H Photo-Video website didn't find anything. Is this it Sirui PH-30 Carbon Fiber Gimbal Head? I have one that's even less expensive, it's the Magnus GH-M1 Gimbal Head.
Anyway, I'm sure it's nice. Surprisingly the Wimberley MH-100 is not as expensive as I thought it would be considering how much their full size Gimbal cost and their carbon fiber mono and tripod cost. I use a leofoto carbon fiber monopod(I also have an old school Manfroto 290 monopod with an old school 486C2 ball head. It's like carrying around a VIKING steel sword, compared to the carbon fiber equipment LOL. I really enjoy using the Leofoto monopod.
I doubt I'll go tge Groundpod route because I have the Manfroto befree tripod and it breaks all the way down to the ground and I have the short center column accessory. That with the longer tripod legs of the befree provides good stability especially when used on the sand. See picture below.
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@GEGJr I'm pretty new here, so a bit more active. There's several other members also being quite active, which is really nice.
The Weyllan unit won't be available in B&H. Try Amazon US. Sirui is a good brand, haven't heard of the other unit. There's a lot of Chinese made clones with different names that are typically identical. Don't be put off by them being Chinese made - the days of poor quality from Chinese made products are long past imho.
I just find the groundpod unit a nicer implementation and more elegant. I've never really been a tripod guy! -
@David "I've never really been a tripod guy!"
I hear that all the time from digital and especially mirrorless digital shooters.
I started off in photography 5 decades ago with film, slides, and Polaroid. I also shot a lot more medium format and T(twin)LR then. Back then there was no such thing as OSS(in lens optical stable shot) or IBIS(camera body stabilazation). Using a tripod especially for long glass (super telephoto) was an absolute must. Before Sony started putting OSS in their telephoto lenses, because Sony bodies had IBIS, I would read people complaining because the lens was not stabilized. -
@GEGJr I started off with photography in 1988, so not a whipper snipper here. I shot macrophotography of Insects and Arachnids for 15 odd years before my eyes worsened and I was unable to determine if their eyes were sharp in the viewfinder. I've always been careful to use the reciprocal value or greater for my shutter speed :-)
Long super telephotos can be handheld with the right shutter speed and good technique. It does take a lot of practice. I'm using a 25 year old mark 1 500mm prime (f4) which is nearly 4kg. It's got around 1.5-2 stops of IS at best, even with IBIS enabled on my R3. So, I shoot with limitations in low light situations - the lowest shutter speed I can reliably go to is 1/400 (that's the 500mm with a 1.4x TC for 700mm focal length).
Canon had IS (lens side) before Sony or Nikon had anything with IS/VR.
I started out with a Zenit 12XP, played around with TLR (Seagull) before moving to Canon SLRs in 1989. The Zenit was a very good beginner camera for learning the technical basics of photography!
Very few macrophotographers used a tripod BTW. Nearly everyone preferred handheld due to the flexibility that it offered.
Dave -
@David
- Canon had IS (lens side) before Sony or Nikon had anything with IS/VR.
Yes that's true but I believe if memory serves Konica-Minolta was first with in-body image stabilization (ibis). Back then my first 35mm slr was a Minolta HTsi Plus later Konica-Minolta Maxxum 9 they are of course now Sony. I think Minolta was happy back then to be third fiddle to the big 2 in the 35mm slr arena Nikon & Canon.
As I can remember my first attempts in photography was with our family Polaroid Land Camera. It so happened to coincide with my first 33⅓ LP record album a jazz piece named "Unchain My Heart" by jazz flutist (Herbert Jay Solomon) stage name Herbie Mann. I used the camera to take photos at my 1965 junior high school graduation from the 8th grade. In my area 7th and 8th were considered junior high. No one else in my very large immediate family (I'm oldest of 10 siblings) even cared to use it.
Anyway, sorry to go off into left field. This is a bird photography forum, isn't it. 😊 -
@GEGJr All good. Discussion is always good. Yes, from memory, Minolta had IS in the body first. I remember the Maxxum cameras - very good, certainly not inferior to Canon or Nikon. Canon was the first to introduce it to lenses though (and the last to bring IBIS to camera bodies, so it evens out I guess).
I think my first touch of photography was with a polaroid camera too, circa 1979/78. I didn't really show a serious interest in photography until my last year of school, where another student had some stunning photos for his final year exam submission. I didn't take it up for another 2 years, but photography stuck around in my mind and a desire to try photography was planted.
I think I know the name Herbie Mann, albeit not very well. I still listen to LPs (I have a high end audio system, including an analogue record player setup that costs a lot of money!).
I think it's great to get to know other students interests to be honest.
Cheers,
Dave -
@David David,
Thanks for engaging with me. My wife is not a photography person and neither are our sons (3) or grandkids(8 the ones old enough), except the one in his senior year at college. He does lots of video and has a small photography business with his girlfriend. But, sadly we don't get much time together these days. I hope once he's out of school that will change.
Anyway, thanks for the discussion.
Good Shooting -
@GEGJr It’s always good to find likeminded people who enjoy the same hobby.
Here’s a recent image I took (Magpie Goose).
Cheers,
Dave -
@David It's beautiful image. In future can you include some exposure data? I don't care about branding just hiw photo is taken.
Thanks -
@GEGJr Hey! On a cruise atm so no access to the exif data. Will post when I get home in 24 hours. I do keep exif data but I upload my images to discord so I can download them to my phone and that strips the exif data…
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@David No worries. Of course I didn't know you were on a cruise. Are you downloading directly from the camera to Discord? Didn't know you could do that.
Since I use Sony I can use the Sony Creator's App on my cell to include GPS data and download original raw file or a reduced size jpeg to the Sony Creator's online storage or any other online service such as Flickr or my Adobe storage or even to Dropbox, Google Drive, or OneDrive assuming I have a wireless connection, or to my phone internal storage or SD card in my phone. I can tell the app whether I want include the shoot data, too. It's a very useful app.
Anyway it's not a big deal. I just like knowing how the image was exposed and what lens was used. It's a habit from days with Nature Photography Network https://www.naturephotographers.network/ where if you shared images for critiques you have to provide shoot data.
Like I said it's not a big deal so don't worry about it. I hope the rest of your trip is a good one. -
@GEGJr No, I download from my CFExpress card/card reader to my laptop. I then cull/sort (FastStone Image viewer) before importing into Lightroom. I only upload to discord (my own private server) when I'm doing processing the image, so I have a JPG copy on my phone to show friends and family.
I embed EXIF data in my images, including exported JPGs, but discord must strip it.
My R3 has wifi access to, so I can grab the RAWS off the camera and download directly to my phone if I want to, but it's not much point, since RAW files never look super great, but flat and lifeless.
Rest of the trip went well, have now arrived back home. We had a massive storm come through last night apparently, with wind speeds near 100kph (~62mph). It has knocked down a lot of lines and there are currently around 100k homes without power across Brisbane, including ours. No indication when power will be restored either.
I have loaded that image up and the shooting settings were:
1/500
f4
ISO250
500mm focal length (Canon EF 500mm f4 IS L mark 1).
R3 (king of low light photography until the R1 camera was released, but still has slightly better DR than the R1 imho).
I usually have the 1.4x TC (mark 3 version) permanently attached to my 500mm prime, but had it off on this instance as I was at the local council bird sanctuary which is a bit dark, so f4 is better than f5.6, saving a stop of ISO, and 500mm focal length is more than enough too, don't need 700mm.
I do a lot of edits in Lightroom and Photoshop - my skill level is probably intermediate, but I have an extensive workflow process for image editing.
Dave -
@David WOW! Thanks for all the great info.
Sorry to here about the weather. I hope things get back to normal soon. Although suspect that bad weather is par for course in your neck of the woods? But still all the same I hope ot gets better sooner than later.
I don't have hardly any photoshop skills. I tried but don't get it. Too complicated for my simple brain. I can do minor stuff in LrC but nothing too elaborate. I don't really believe in doing too much manipulation other than some dodging and burning.
If you observe happy Thanksgiving to you and yours.
P. S. I always try responding directly from link in email notification but it never works. The link takes me to your post but there is no reply button so I have to go back up to top to sign-in. Probably has something to do with fact I'm usually reading email in mobile phone; Samsung Galaxy A54 5G. -
@GEGJr Power was restored around 1pm yesterday, around 4 hours after we arrived back home. Was off for ~22 hours. More storms rolled in last night, thankfully nothing bad where we live, but we are expecting more severe storms tonight and tomorrow as well as very hot days on Thursday and Friday (both 37c - ~99F).
It is Summer here, and our location usually gets a fair share of storms.
Editing and learning how to utilise Lightroom and Photoshop takes both time, effort and persistence. Masking is your friend! Editing is vital when it comes to digital RAW files. Whilst I try to get it right in camera, it's not always feasible. Digital RAW files will be soft without sharpening, since most sensors have an anti-alias filter in front of them (helps avoid moiré issues).
We don't observe Thanksgiving here in Australia, but thank you anyways.
I have the same issue when responding - the website logs you out after a period of time. i wish it would remember you and keep you logged in!
Cheers,
Dave -
@David Didn't realize you're in Australia. I thought you were in Northeast USA in the what's called New England. Still, I hope you folks are all ok and that you recover soon. Stay safe.
I do shoot raw most of the time but I let LcR do most of the post processing using the auto function and I just do a little clean up if necessary. I do try my hand at sharpening and when necessary do a little touch up but still nothing too serious. Mostly though I try very hard to get nail exposure right in camera. That's why I like the Sony A7RM5 and A7CR because of 61MP I can crop in post if necessary. I cannot afford a 500mm F4 prime or any prime big lens. I have Sony's 400-800mm F6.3-8 G and 100400mm GM. Also have Sony's 24-105mm GM and a really nice Rokinon-Samyang 14-24 mm for Sony. I just in the last year switched from DSLR to mirrorless (Sept 2024 traded in my A99M2 and A77M2 along with A-mount lenses). -
@GEGJr All good. Proud first nations Australian.
There's an auto function in LRc?
My R3 is only 24mp and I find for the most part, it is more than enough. Sure, for smaller birds that aren't close, or heavy crops it isn't 100% a good choice. I will eventually purchase a used R5 (45mp) when funds allow, but that'll probably be a few years away from now as 2025 has been a very bad year for me financially.
You can adapt Canon EF lenses to Sony I believe and they should work reasonably good. AF won't be as good as native, but...used mark 1 500mm primes are probably 2k USD. Both Sony and Nikon have great lenses, but their old non MLC lenses don't tend to perform well with their modern MLCs. That's where Canon shines. Canon's EF range of lenses was the largest of all the marques and all of that old EF glass works. Sony has 300/400 and 600 primes native for their MLCs, but they are rare on the used market and have hefty new prices.
The rather new Sony 400-800 is amazing. It is pretty reasonably priced and it is a cracking lens (I have used 1 in a camera shop on a A7RV). I wish Canon had something similar. It is vastly superior to the RF200-800 imho.
How have you found the transition to MLC? For me, despite initial reservations, I have loved using the EVF. And the AF systems are sublime
Here's a male Superb Fairywren, which is a very small Australian grass bird (they are not true Wrens). Less than 10cm and probably weigh only 12gm (less than half an ounce).
I'll pop you another reply shortly with a brief overview of my workflow.
Cheers,
Dave
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@David
- There's an auto function in LRc?
Yes there is. It is availabe in the Develop Module under the BASIC tab The Lightroom Classic guru I subscribe to online, Tim Grey of GreyLearning.com uses the auto function as a starting point that he invokes at the import stage.
- The rather new Sony 400-800 is amazing.
Yes, as I said, I have the 400-800 G and the 100-400 GM. I really like both lenses. I especially like that the 400-800 is internal zoom and the short throw from 400 to 800.
- How have you found the transition to MLC?
At first I was quite intimidated because Sony changed the menu system very radically from what I what used to after 3+ decades of the same menu system on all Sony non-mirrorless DSLR and DSLT cameras. I am still not used to the mirrorless menu system. Not to mention all the custom buttons (A7RV has 4, A7CR has 3) and there are a plethora of customizations available for almost every button and dial on both cameras.
Besides Tim Grey whom I already mentioned another Sony guru I follow is Gary Friedman. Gary has written a book on just about every Sony camera since Sony purchased A-Mount from Konica-Minolta. He's also written books on Olympus and others. He is also associate editor and contributor to CameraCraft magazine, formerly named F/2 Magazine published by Editor David Kilpatrick. CameraCraft is a British magazine associated with The Guild of Photographers, www.photoguild.co.uk. It's an amazing publication. Unfortunately they're not longer mailing to USA in paper I can only get the electronic version now.
Regards -
@GEGJr There's no doubt that cameras have become more complex. Like you, I am UI sensitive. Thankfully, Canon has been pretty stable with their camera menu UI over the past 20 odd years, unlike Sony or Nikon.
I just had a quick play with the auto function in Lightroom Classic and it was pretty horrid. Not gonna lie.
I had a quick look at www.photoguild.co.uk and it looks quite good. I'm currently unemployed, but may subscribe in the future once I secure employment and can afford it. Of course, many of the things that they offer members are irrelevant to me as I am outside of the UK. I'm also not a working professional! Many thanks for the heads up, greatly appreciated.
I want to expand my experience and knowledge into landscape photography and studio portraiture over the coming few years, and motorsports too actually.
Cheers,
Dave
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@David
- Re: I want to expand my experience and knowledge into landscape photography and studio portraiture over the coming few years, and motorsports too actually.
It just so happens I live in between two well know motorsport meccas; The Indianapolis Motor Speedway famous for the Indy 500 and Lucas Oil Raceway Park famous for the annual NHRA (National Hot Rod Association) U. S. Drag Racing Nationals is held. -
@GEGJr nice! That'd be a BLAST!!!
Dave -
@GEGJr I export to my hard drive, cull and sort using FastStone image viewer. I mainly check for focus and composition. I have become far more ruthless with culling as time goes by.
I then import the remaining images into LRc and rate them (the rating from FastStone doesn't carry over which is frustrating).
My first step in editing is usually to do 3 things:
1. Run DXO Pure RAW to denoise and then adjust overall exposure (globally)
2. Adjust the White point (holding down the Alt key so you can see where you are clipping)
3. Adjust the Black point (same as point 2 with regards to clipping).
4. I then add some clarity and vibrance, but only in very small amounts, less than 10 points.
5. I then go to the masking tab. I mask for the subject (bird) and adjust exposure if needed, shadow and highlights. I may adjust the temperature for the bird (most times I don't change this). Note: I spend a lot of time on refining the masking. Do NOT trust LRc's masking - it is usually not accurate. Spend the time masking and refining masking - it will produce much better overall results.
6. I then mask for the background and adjust that accordingly (global exposure, highlights, shadows, temperature). I do tend to prefer brighter backgrounds (less noise is evident) and warmer backgrounds (more pleasing to the eye).
7. I may do additional masking (radial and linear gradient typically), on a per image basis.
8. I'll go to the remove tab and use gen AI (with object detect) to remove distractions. Sometimes it works better with object detect turned off). I'll go down to the dust sub-panel and remove dust. Modern MLC sensors rarely have dust from my experiences.
9. Back to the main tab where I do some sharpening. Another trick here is to use the alt key with the masking slider to only sharpen what needs sharpening. If you leave masking at 0, it sharpens everything, including the background, making it noisier. I adjust detail, radius, sharpness sliders accordingly. I tend to be quite light on sharpening in LRc (this is a pretty new step that I have added in the past 4 or so weeks - prior to this I only sharpened in Photoshop).
10. I open the edited image in Photoshop. I enable layers and duplicate the layer. I use the AI select subject tool to select the bird and clean up the mask manually (click on mask, hit the "\" key and you'll see the mask. Hit D to set the default background/foreground and then B to select the brush tool and add/remove masking as required. Once I have the mask refined as I want, I open up a curves adjustment layer, which auto creates the mask. I usually create a shallow "S" curve to improve contrast on the bird.
11. I'll reuse the mask in 10. for a hue/saturation adjustment layer. You can hold down the ALT key and drag the mask to another layer, copying it. You can invert the mask by clicking on the mask itself and hitting "I" (for invert). I may spend some time doing custom masks on very small areas of the bird that I want to adjust, rather than the entire bird.
12. I do sharpening (I have a complex technique - happy to abbreviate and share if you want). It is very minor sharpening and not overdone.
13. I save my edits as a .TIF format, with all layers visible. It does result in large file sizes but it does mean that I can return to the file at any time and adjust layers on a per layer basis easily. Hard drive space is cheap. Abuse it LOL!
14. Final step for web - I flatten the layers (but don't save the flattening process), edit menu, convert to profile (sRGB), resize the image (2400px longest size) and save as (not save for web, which strips EXIF data). You may need to enable the old save as option, as it's hidden by default now by Adobe in Photoshop (stupid UI design change imho).
Note: with resizing, I vary between bicubic sharper, bicubic smoother or bilinear, depending on the image. I tend to find that bicubic sharper over-sharpens and doesn't look the best.
Hope this inspires you and your editing process.
Cheers,
Dave -
@David <p style="text-align: right;">Wow!! That's way outside my skill level. I'd like to publish a photo or two here but I'm usually on my phone as I am now and most my wildlife, especially birds images are on my external SSD or online location not available on my phone.</p>
Regards
P. S. Do you do this for every photo you take or just ones you flag or give a high rating while culling? -
@GEGJr Hi Greg,
You do learn to adapt, and as you practice more, your comfort level increases. There's a good feeling when your technical skills improve and it's great for your self-esteem and self-confidence. Baby steps!
I've had a few images published - some of my Blue Banded Bee (native Australian Bees) have been published online, and I was very lucky to have 1 of my Bird images from circa 2005 published in a book written by Jerry Olsen (RIP):
https://www.amazon.com.au/Australian-Country-Raptors-Jerry-Olsen-ebook/dp/B00L3T6YRK
He somehow tracked me down as I'd posted an image of a female Grey Goshawk on a Canberra based bird forum that I'd used to ID the bird when I originally took it! He asked permission to use the image in his upcoming book and I happily agreed (I got a copy of the book as my reward!). I got a full colour A5 image!!! The image isn't great imho, and I'd have done a much better job with it now.
Yes, it's my standard workflow. Processing each image usually takes around 30-45 minutes. It pays to extract the best out of your RAW images imho. I will admit that I find the post processing and editing of my images rather cathartic.
Cheers,
Dave -
@David I'm impressed.
- https://www.amazon.com.au/Australian-Country-Raptors-Jerry-Olsen-ebook/dp/B00L3T6YRK
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@GEGJr I was lucky George, nothing more. Still stoked, but it wasn't skill that got my image picked for publication in a book.
Cheers,
Dave -
@David Actually to be frank its way too much for me. I have never enjoyed electronic processing.
To make a very long story short when I started getting really serious about photography I was working as a traveling studio photographer for a couple of national studios traveling to various locations in my region and setting up ad-hoc studios to do family portraits and to daycare centers taking toddler and preschool kid portraits. Of course this was all film. I also worked for a national school photography business taking high school pictures using a 70mm film camera loading my own film on site using a black bag. Have you ever done that? Eventually one of my employers started to use the Kodak Nikon joint produced digital DCS620. It was a very low resolution digital 35mm camera. We would copy images (jpegs) to a CD and overnight to HQ where they would develop and produce what customers had selected which had been previewed on our laptop. It had to be right in the camera, exposure, white balance, and composition because we presented almost immediately following the session. Maybe that's why I don't like post processing.
After doing that for a while I started doing weddings and event photography. Again on film. Of course I would send film off for processing and to get proofs for showing to customers. Some of the labs would send back proofs on CD and I would show to customer on my desktop pc. Some customers would want to buy the CD which I would like because it was an extra charge and the jpegs were low resolution so I didn't have to worry about customers printing anything more than 3x5 so I wasn't losing any money.
While doing all that I also held down a full time job as a Quality Assurance Analyst for business processes and procedures and writing work procedures. When I retired I turned my interest to nature and landscape photography. Well, that in a nutshell is my background in how I got to where I am in photography now. Boring I know.
Best Regards,
George -
@GEGJr Hi George (sorry, I got your name wrong in another reply, never rely on a bad memory LOL!),
Coming from a film background is probably partly the reason why you are averse to digital editing at a guess. Old habits are sometimes hard to kick.
I would encourage you to engage in advancing your post processing skills - your images will love you for it.
I have worked with 35mm film in the dark room, albeit many many years ago. I did work experience for year 10 at school (1984) at the CSIRO (Commonwealth Scientific and Industry Research Organisation), Australia's premiere government science agency. I worked in their microbiology department for 2 weeks, so got to play with both transverse and scanner electron microscopes. The scientist taught me how to use a camera, load film, develop and print B/W film (no colour) in their darkroom. The photography bug didn't really bite at the time, I was more interested in the science itself. I haven't done any dark room work since then, but I still remember the basics. I'd be rusty as hell, but wouldn't take long to get back into the swing of things. I believe the principles of colour film development are very similar, it's just the temperature accuracy is more vital than B/W. Correct me if I am wrong.
Backgrounds are not boring, they are a good way to get to know people. I have done many different types of work in my life, although a good portion of it was working in IT (Toshiba internal support, tier 1 Apple Computer support, DYMO product support and 8 years as a level 3 sysadmin for a small ISP) . My best friend is a business analyst, very similar to your role. I have used many different operating systems over the last 25+ years, including UNIX, MacOS, Windows and GNU/Linux. I am most comfortable with UNIX and UNIX like systems.
Studio photography is something I would like to get more into, but I haven't had the money to buy entry level studio lights etc. Hopefully over the coming few years if my finances improve.
Cheers,
Dave -
@David Studio photography, IMHO, is very satisfying. Even though I don't use it very often I still have all the equipment; lights and stands, background stands, gels for changing color of a white background and lots of light modifiers; shoot through and bounce umbrellas and lightboxes including a 5 foot octagon lightbox mostly used for lighting a group portrait and light meters. Light meters aren't used a lot these days because lights these days are pretty much continuous instead of flash monoblocs. Although I still have and use my old Elinchron monoblocs.
In studio photography you have complete control of the environment, light, DOF, and posing. I don't believe I've ever shot studio portraits in camera raw format because of the complete control I have of the exposure elements.
I think you would enjoy studio work.
No problem about the name. I haven't even noticed. -
@GEGJr Hi George,
I had hoped to be able to afford a budget Godox 2 light setup with stands, brollies, reflectors and background as well as some gels. But alas, income and too many expensive hobbies and unexpected bills killed that from happening in both 2024 and 2025. 2025 has been especially BAD for me and I cannot wait to see the end of the year and move onto a new 2026, hopefully with a bad luck reset for the new year. I like the technical aspect of studio portraiture.
PS My late father's named was George (and it's 1 of my middle names too).
Cheers,
Dave -
@David
Sorry to hear about the challenges you've had in 2024 and 2025. I'm sure things will turn around for you in the very near future. There's a saying that "how you bring in the new years eve will set the stage for the new year". So make sure your new year's eve is full of positivity. 🪅
As you probably noticed I too am a junior and I have a son who is a 3rd.
I know you're a good man and sure your dad was, too. Sorry for your loss.
Getting your photo published isn't just luck. Congratulations -
@GEGJr Don't know how I put above reply in quotes?
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@GEGJr me neither LOL!
Dave -
@David I then import the remaining images into LRc and rate them (the rating from FastStone doesn't carry over which is frustrating).
Have you tried using Adobe Bridge for culling? You can tell LrC to use Bridge star and color labels.
I tried doing culling in another app before adding to LrC but it seemed like extra work and having to basically import twice, 1st to Bridge or wherever I did first cut, then importing again into LrC.
Have you tried the LrC culling function where it looks for sharpness and other attributes you can assign? New to the latest release. -
@GEGJr I'm not really a fan of Adobe Bridge or Lightroom as a catalogue. I just really want a RAW editor. I do use stars/colours in Lightroom - I manually duplicate what I've done in Faststone.
No, I haven't tried the culling function, but to be honest, I wouldn't trust it with my RAWs. I'm a manual hands on kind of guy. -
@David You do know you can get ACR (Adobe Camera Raw) as just a plug-in? Don't know if it works with FastStone. I have never heard of FastStone.
P. S. Sorry for late response holiday (USA Thanksgiving) was 11/27. Had out of town visitors. -
@GEGJr Yes, I know. FastStone is very popular and actually quite good. My only wish is that rating and colour coding in FastStone would transfer to LRc. That's not FastStone's fault - neither rating or colour coding are EXIF tags...silly really.
I hope you had a good thanksgiving.
Dave -
@GEGJr Here's a male Pacific Black Duck from ~6 months ago. Was a wonderful encounter - it landed around 10 metres in front of me and basically walked right up to me, happily quacking and following me. I backed off to give it space but it was completely unperturbed by my presence and very chatty.
I got wet on the way back to the car, as well as my gear, but the image was well worth it.
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@David Great. Like the creamy bokeh. Thanks for sharing.
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@GEGJr The big 500mm prime gives that creamy bokeh. You just can't easily get it with other consumer lenses. It is what it is.
I might go out with the camera for a bit, although it's 10.30am and not the best time of day. It's overcast though, so the light will be soft and diffused, but I am guessing the birds will be mostly inactive.
Dave -
@David I don't thing anyone actually enjoys using a tripod however, there are times and circumstances that I'm happy to use a tripod and, or a monopod, especially with the Wimberley MH-100 monopod gimbal head.
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@GEGJr Been handholding for many, many years now (macro, then birds). A leopard doesn't change its spots :P With that said, I'm hoping, when funds allow, to get a Groundpod II to use with the big 500mm prime and my carbon fibre Benro gimbal for shorebirds and water fowl. Much easier than trying to hand hold the big lens! I find this more convenient that a tripod option.
Dave -
@David That's the way I am about post processing. Too old and lazy to learn now. LOL
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@GEGJr I don't believe you are ever too old or too lazy.
Dave -
@David Ever heard of Arthur Morris? He publishes a blog at birdsasart-blog.com and also has channel on YouTube. He's now in He's but still does photography trips. I really followed him when I first started shooting birds back in film days. He's a bit opinionated in his old age, for example I gave him my Flickr account address which I primarily used as just a repository for my scanned images long before hard drives became relatively inexpensive. Anyway he posted on his blog that my bird images sucked, LOL. Yes he is right but the overwhelming majority were taken when I was just starting to take bird pictures, the majority of which are not available for just anyone to see. Most of the images in my Flickr account were people (family) portraits not available to everyone. So beware if you post to his blog. Here's the link if you're interested www.flickr.com/photos/gegjr.
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@GEGJr Yes, I am well aware of Artie, I am a member of BPN. Just had a bit of a difference of opinion with him a few days ago. He asserts that the Sony A1II has the best AF of any camera on the market. I disagree. I'm pretty thick skinned. This is 1 of his comments on 1 of my images, I'll take the compliment (see image)!
"Beautiful bird. Ugly-*** perch. I am curious as to how you "got him to perch.
Sharp with natural colors. BTW, the perch with the top sawed off is anything but natural"
Note: this is my 3rd attempt at a reply, the first reply just disappeared with no error.
Dave
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@David Thought you might find this interesting?
[The Friedman Archives Blog] - Is FILM the answer?
https://friedmanarchives.com/cgi-bin/dada/mail.cgi/archive/FA_Mailing_List/20251203153559/# -
@GEGJr Gen AI is a tool and has its advantages. I mean, why have cars...we have feet and should walk.
Dave -
@David You are mixing apples and oranges so again I agree to disagree.
It's like sometimes my wife will ask "why did you take that picture", in an obviously disapproving tone. What I tell her is because I see it and it holds some interest to me either as attractively or in documentary way. Not all images have to conform to others idea of what's worthy. After all, isn't that what art is all about? -
@GEGJr It's a personal preference thing. I've invested a lot of time into learning LRc and Photoshop and how to process my images to make them look their very best. Re-processed a Black Kite earlier today. Not 100% cos backlit. I still like the image.
Dave
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@David I probably should do some dehaze on the sky in hindsight...mmm...
Dave -
@David I hate to put it this way but that's a stupid analysis.
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@GEGJr It's a tool to get the job done. Learning to recognise what tools do what, and when to use them is a good thing.
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@David Hi David,
More fodder about not having a physical representation what you spend time developing. Do you think you spend more time "developing" your raw files than you do actually making the image?
Shane Balkowitsch says much more intelligently than I can.
https://youtu.be/-aAYKypgnPs?si=yZZF1vkNBPA_vqol -
@GEGJr I have to disagree. A negative is still considered an image, even if it hasn't been printed. The same applies to a digital negative (RAW) file.
It's not cost effective for me to print (AUD $38 for A2). I have no place to store them on my walls. And I'm not selling my images. Printing is a waste of time, and money. Money that is better spent elsewhere.
I share on several online forums, as well as Instagram.
Digital files are by nature, under-developed and need effort to maximise their final outcome. It is what it is. There are a number of reasons for this. Nature photography doesn't always allow you to shoot your exposure correctly. For example, shooting Australian Logrunners nearly 3 years ago in the deep rainforest canopy at Lamington National Park, I was shooting with my 500mm and 1.4x TC and the R3. Even at 1/400, f5.6 (wide open) and ISO25600, I was still 1.5 stops underexposed. In hindsight, losing the TC would have been a good idea and I have learned that lesson. I'm using a mark 1 500mm prime, so the IS isn't nowhere near as good as modern lenses, so 1/400 was the minimum shutter speed that I could drop to. Again, it is what it is. The images came out pretty good, considering, but did require 2 runs of AI NR (start & end of the workflow).
It's either that, or not get a photo of the species. They don't typically come out into the open either, so lighting will always be at a premium with this species.
If I hadn't taken the time to process the RAW files, but instead just did a straight RAW to JPG, the images would have been very underwhelming and not worth even posting.
If you are shooting digital, then developing (no pun intended) a solid workflow will only benefit your images.
Dave -
@David I don't advocate printing everything and even when worth printing not printing the most expensive size or process. I can't even count how many prints I have of my loved ones that as by most photographic strict interpretation are not technically good, but they bring me great joy of a specific point in time that I may never see again and I think are worth printing even if I print myself.
Yeah we Americans can be hypocrites. Especially when it comes to what's proper. I am sure Aussies have social norms that not even all Australians agree with? -
@GEGJr OH yes, I cherish photos of my mum & dad. And my best mate of 40+ years. Don't really care for much else. I'd love the room on my walls to hang some of my images. Sadly, my sister doesn't want me putting up my images on the walls. She'd rather put her own stuff up instead. yeah, and I own half of the house...
Aussies are pretty relaxed. -
@David Ansel Adams viewed printing as the crucial "performance" of the negative (the "score"), a deeply creative act of interpretation using darkroom techniques like dodging and burning to achieve his precise vision, not just a mechanical reproduction. He stressed visualization before shooting, meticulous camera work (Zone System), and extensive post-processing (burning/dodging) to bring out texture, depth, and emotion, often making many prints from one negative to perfect the final expressive result, making the print as important as the capture itself.
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@GEGJr It's still manipulation though.
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@David Are you saying that removing or adding objects is the same as dodging and burning?
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@GEGJr Yes. Manipulation is manipulation. Choosing to decide what is manipulation is well, sugar coating things imho :-)
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@GEGJr Should have said, "I don't think anyone actually enjoys carrying a tripod." But I bet they enjoy the blur free images. Like everything it's a tool.
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@GEGJr I very rarely get blurry images. If I do, it's on me for the wrong camera settings. And I've handheld for 15 years of macrophotography of Insects & Arachnids and now birds for 3.5 years with a big heavy 500mm prime.
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I'm a stay at home mom that picked up a cheap used camera about a year ago to take my bird watching hobby to the next level. I'm not sure I have the right camera for what I prefer in a photo, but I try to make it work since I'm on a tight budget. I have an Olympus OM-D E-M1 with an olympus M.Zuiko 75-300mm lens. When taking photos I tend to gravitate towards the bird I'm photographing being the focal point of the background "chaos" so to speak. I like those photos more than the plain background ones I've captured so far. I'm always struck by other photographers' close up photos that contain so much detail of the bird, but I don't think the equipment to achieve that is quite in my budget at this time. I do love a good photo that shows some personality, though! I've attached a swamp or song sparrow photo that I've taken this fall that I think illustrates my "focal point in the chaos" description.
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Kiersten - 2 things dictate detail on a bird from my experiences so far in this hobby.
1. focal length of lens
2. photographer to subject distance
1 will help you get "closer" to the bird, but there will come a point where learning how to approach a subject without spooking it will enhance that. And smaller subjects, such as songbirds, make it even harder.
I still find 700mm focal length too short for smaller subjects! -
@David Hopefully some day I can get my hands on a lens with better focal length; I just can't afford it at the moment. I think I do all right with what I have for a hobby, though.
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@Kiersten Oh yes, definitely. There's NO rush. The main thing is to enjoy yourself. Money is tough for everyone. Hopefully the mods think this is OK, you may find this video interesting on detail/focal length/distance to bird (it all is inter-related):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3albJiUIrbg
Duade is my favourite YouTuber and just an all round nice guy. Has a knack for explaining things and I learned a lot from him.
Cheers!
Dave
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My goal is to perfect my approach with the gear that I have, which is a used Canon 7D Mark II with lenses that cover most needs, from a Macro 100 mm to a used Tamron 150 to 600 mm lens, which is my main birding lens. The science and engineering of this equipment are extraordinary. I nearly cried the first time I looked at the Tamron images of some banded pigeons that I could barely see in a treetop with my naked eyes. In my photos, they were big and clear and spectacular. Since I am just one year into my bird photography hobby, I want to really unpack all of the features of the 7D Mark II to do a better job of tracking moving birds and getting better depth of field focus. Looking at award-winning bird photographs, my goal is to get interesting behavior and flight captures, and interesting portraits of individual birds and families. Blinds seem like a good investment to me, so that may be next!
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Congrats on the 7DII, it's a great camera. You'll want to employ a modern noise reduction (NR) software for cleaning up high ISO noise with this camera though - above ISO 2000 and it is quite noisy. Adobe's built in denoise in Lightroom is well worth a consideration, since it is essentially included free of charge with the application. The camera is capable of awesome images too. This is 1 of my shots taken with my 7DII (Sacred Kingfisher).
Dave
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I've invested a fair amount of money into birding photography, since I derive great pleasure from it, and it is both good for my physical and mental health wellbeing. With that said, there are many great lower cost items that can result in amazing bird photography imho. I'm a Canon shooter, and for many of the newer photographers with a lower budget, I would highly recommend 2 gear variants:
R7 + Canon EF 400mm f5.6L (no IS, not a zoom, but a very sharp lens, and pretty light too). Combined with the 1.6x crop factor of the R7, you'll get an effective focal length of 640mm, which is a decent amount of reach and pretty much good enough for most birds. Sure, some of the smaller song birds may be smaller in the frame, but this is where you can learn the skill of approaching birds.
R7+RF200-800 - bonus is that it's a zoom lens, native RF (Canon mirrorless) and has an effective focal length of 1280mm at the longer end of the zoom. You don't have to deal with the Canon EF to RF adaptor to that you require for older EF lenses on a Canon mirrorless body. Slightly faster AF, but slightly inferior optical quality imho, is a heavier lens and bulkier too.
For Sony, you can try the 3rd party longer zoom lenses such as the Tamron 150-600 or Sigma 150-600 (not the sports version, but the contemporary version instead) but be aware that Sony nerfs frame rates when using a 3rd party lens and AF performance will suffer too vs a native Sony lens. Sony's entry level isn't great value vs Canon's efforts, but it gets the job done.
For Nikon, the Z50II is probably a good entry level bet, again, with the Sigma or Tamron lenses. The same caveats will apply to these lenses when used on the Z50II as with the Sony setup.
I made decision to invest heavily in Canon gear many years ago in the late 80s and when I finally made the decision to move to Canon mirrorless in late 2022, I chose the Canon EOS R3. I made this decision as I was worried about the effects of rolling shutter with the higher resolution R5 and being only 24mp, the R3 would offer reasonably better low light performance, for example. when shooting under the rainforest canopy. Of course, it is a very expensive camera, and not a beginner's camera. I have been able to shoot some images at ISO25600 and get satisfactory results. For example, this female Australian Logrunner:

My main lens is a rather old Canon EF 500mm f4 prime - again, giving me the flexibility to open wide up at f4 for low light conditions. The above shot was taken at 1/320, f4, ISO25600. A slower lens like the Sigma 150-600 would have made this shot all but impossible to capture.
An expensive setup isn't really required, but pricier equipment options do give that extra bit of oomph that can help get more difficult shots.
The main thing is to enjoy the hobby. Many photographers unfortunately get caught up in the gear and miss out on the beauty of nature. In the end, the camera is just a means to an end. -
As a child I always wanted to make pictures like this 🙂 took me 40 more years to finally start the journey.
I had a Olympus OMD EM-10, which I now learned is somewhat of a beginner‘s camera, for several years without actually using it… now I bought a 150-600mm lens and all of a sudden shots like this one tend to happen! The background was a huge distraction for the autofocus. So of course, it‘s about 1 in 30 shots that I‘m happy with, but still… I am happy with the results.
So my first impression is: range of magnification matters immensely. I was very lucky there was plenty of sunlight on the day I shot this picture. Now with all the information from Melissa I‘m confident to improve my skills even in conditions that are not as perfect… -
I love shots of perched birds filling the frame, with soft, uncluttered backgrounds. I'd love to learn to get good at birds in flight, though.
I have a Fujifilm X-T4, which I have mostly been using as an all-around camera, shooting portraits, travel, and everything else. To help out my burgeoning bird photography interest, earlier this summer I got a used XF 100-400 f4.5 - 5.6 lens and a 2x teleconverter. I think this setup can produce the kinds of images I want to make, although I am starting to bump into the limits of the reduced aperture that's a result of the teleconverter. I also am beginning to feel the limitations of my 26MP crop-sensor camera body when trying to crop in closer to my subjects, and when shooting in low-light conditions. I like being in the Fujifilm ecosystem, so I'll have to start looking closely at the upgrade options available to me.
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I previously had a Nikon D40X, which I used for over a decade. I replaced it last year with a D7500, and am continuing to use the 55-200mm, f/4–5.6, zoom lens that I had. My goal would be to upgrade my lens, but they are more expensive than the body! 600mm would be amazing, but 300mm would be more affordable. I generally walk around popular parks with bodies of water or just watch my bird feeders, so I'm not necessarily looking for blinds and like to keep it light.
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I have done things a** backwards. I love nature photography and just haven't found the time to take a course in learning how to do it right, so I have a mirrorless camera (Canon R5), a mirrorless 100-500 zoom lens, a teleconverter, and a tripod. My goals are to move up to the next level and improve my perched bird shots and learn how to take birds in flight as well as birds in motion shots. I prefer, in general, more full frame close-ups, but I've seen some incredible shots that don't fit in those categories. I love shots that show the personality of the birds!
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That's a really nice shot! This is the kind of shot I want to make - soft, uncluttered background with the bird filling the frame, tack-sharp, with lots of details visible. Really nice work!
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I enjoy close-ups of birds, especially when they are interacting with other birds or their young. My goals for photography are education, conservation, and sharing the wonder of the wildlife at the local wildlife refuge. I have a Canon EOS 7D and a Sigma 150-600 mm lens. After seeing a Wimberley Head in action in this course, I see how it would be an improvement over the ball head on my tripod. Another useful piece of equipment would be a 1.4x Teleconverter.
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I have always taken photos of perched birds. I have an opportunity to travel to Hog Island, Maine this June and need better equipment. Last year, I purchased a Nikon Z-5 and this past week, after watching the lesson on equipment, I purchased a 200-500 zoom lens (used), a Chronicle tri-pod, and a Think Tank backpack. I wanted a back pack with a hip belt to take the load off of my shoulders, and this backpack is perfect for me. I was looking at the more expensive tri-pods, but the camera specialists kept bringing me back to the Chronicle tri-pod which is one of the best sellers. I tinkered around with my gear at home then went in search of birds. All of our ponds are frozen over, so I was unable to locate winter ducks. I could see Canada geese in fields, but there was no place to safey pull off the road to take photos. Next week, I will venture out to the wildlife refuge a few hours from home to capture some images. Below is a perched bird which was an easy shot. Best of luck everyone with your photos:)
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I have always loved birds and nature but it wasn´t until I had an accident last year and I was forced to remain still to heal that I wanted to capture them in a photo. I spent a lot of time looking out of the window and watching the birds and their behaviour. When the baby birds started flocking to my garden I was hooked and started taking photos with an I-phone which for bird photography wasn´t really ideal. So my husband saw my passion and he gifted me an OM-5 for my birthday and now I am trying my best to capture 150 different birds in my area throughout this year as my goal. I am not sure I have the best camera for bird photography and capturing birds in flight clearly is potentially not going to work, but I´m trying my best with the equipment I have. For me the OM-5 is a good weight because I do have a shoulder injury.

unedited photo : Collared Dove -
My current camera is an OM systems OM-1. I chose the OM-1 because it's a micro 4/3, so it's smaller and lighter weight than full frame cameras. And their cameras are really designed for wildlife photography. My first bird lens was their budget 75-300 mm and it helped me learn at a good price point. This summer, I talked to an OM systems rep at Kenmore Camera near Seattle, explaining that I want to do bird photography but I'm unwilling to carry a huge lens. This becomes more of an issue as you get older and have the inevitable aches and pains in hands, arms, back, and shoulders. The rep recommended the OM f 2.8 40-150 (80-300 equivalent) mm pro lens with a 1.4 teleconverter. It's a great setup, not too heavy to carry and good in low light. I'm not a professional photographer, and can't afford their $7500 lens anyway. Here's one of my first photos of a Bewick's wren with my new lens.
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I bought myself a Nikon Coolpix P950 because all I want to do right now is document my life list and occasionally share come pictures on Instagram for my friends. I was flipflopping between a handful of bridge cameras and some mirrorless, but settled on the P950 when I saw that a bird influencer I like on IG uses it. If it's good enough for her, it's good enough for me. I live in a major urban environment and do not have enough time to get into more natural areas, so the P950 is fine right now. I see the same birds nearly every day and I am using these opportunities to get better at the non-gear aspects of photography. My 2025 goal is to get a decent picture of every local bird in my city. My general goal is to improve my photography skills so that if I get to go on a once-in-a-lifetime wildlife-themed trip, I can get a better DSLR or something and already have a strong skill base.
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In a few months I am taking a special trip to Costa Rica and decided to upgrade my equipment so I can photograph wildlife, both for ID purposes and pleasure. Locally I like adding photos to my eBird checklists. I started off purchasing a used Tamron G2 lens, 150 mm to 600 mm. It’s heavy but only 1/2 the weight of high priced competitor lenses like Sigma or Sony. It has vibration control for handheld shots, so I’ve been carrying around with a Cotton carrier and shooting handheld. I also added a wrist loop to help me hold it as I’m discovering muscles I clearly have not been using (ouch). Next I decided to upgrade my camera body and purchased a used Nikon D500. It’s a crop sensor, older camera that still comes highly recommended for amateurs. I took the setup out for the first time this past weekend and I’m pleased at the quality even my first time out.
I like the classic portrait shots—sharp, detailed, with background blur. This mockingbird photo is an example of that. But ultimately I want the portraits to show behavior/personality so they stand out, and because I’m a birder. It’s more difficult because of the movement. So-I’ve been shooting RAW and post editing in Lightroom. It has blown my mind how much detail can be saved in this format even when I’ve horribly underexposed the image. My favorite part of this whole journey is when I check Lightroom to reveal what I’ve managed to capture.
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I have to add, I went over to the Macaulay Library and found a photographer whose work I admired very much. When I looked to see what camera he uses… it’s the D500 like me! I was actually questioning if I should have gotten a full frame camera instead so this was encouraging to see what is possible with the setup I already have.
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I decided I wanted to purchase a Rebel T8i camera and get a 200-400 mm lens to start. Right now I use a bridge camera and I’m looking forward to an upgrade. I appreciated all the options Melissa talked about and I’d really like to try the extra gear once I get used to the new camera and lense
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I already have a Kodak Pixpro 405AZ with 200mm lens and 40x telephoto lens built in. I have to get a tripod and
I think I want to get a tripod with "ball" head as I don't have a long heavy lens and it will give me the smooth action of
positioning the camera that I am searching for.
I have been using my car as a hide and using my old rifle gun pillows as platforms to take pictures. I no longer hunt in my older years but find that many of my clothes from hunting allow me to get close to the birds for excellent photos and also
using the skills I used to use while hunting such as sitting still for long periods of time, blending into the trees and surroundings, and building myself natural blinds out of surrounding brush. -
I would like to transition from a bridge camera (Nikon P950) to a Mirrorless Canon RF 100-500mm to help me capture birds in flight and in low light. I would like to improve the quality of photographs as I grow and learn to become a better photographer and birder. I am based in Iceland where there is not much cover to hide and high winds. I prefer to use my car as a hide. I travel a great deal. Not sure what temperature range this camera and lens can handle regarding the cold. The ground is pretty rocky and uneven. I do have to walk in to some birding areas. I love nature and landscapes. I have the correct clothing to explore in the outdoors in different conditions.
Canon RF 7
CanonRF 100-500mm
3 x Canon camera batteries
Lens protector
Dry bag
Rain cover
Tripod with pan head (unsure if a ball head would cope with weight?)
Bean bag or lens sack
Shoulder strap
(Found the knee and elbow pad tip very useful) -
I recently bought a Canon Rebel T7 for landscape photography but my friend recommended I get a 70-300mm lens with it. I haven't tried it out yet but I know the photos I'm drawn to are ones of the birds, usually with the focal point being on them. So blurred backgrounds are okay for me. I got a cheaper tripod when I bought my camera but I'm sure I can upgrade if I feel the need to. As well, my dad hunts so I can borrow his clothes to go camouflage myself and my camping gear I keep in my vehicle has items like a mat I can use to sit down on. The big thing I noted was that Teleconverter lens. That looked really useful! So my goal would be to look into canon's verions of them as well as getting used to my camera.
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I just bought a bridge camera (SONY RX10 IV) for documentation and identification. I have just been birding for a year, and still pretty much enjoy observing bird behaviors and discovery of new species. Though taking high quality images is appealing to me, too, I realized birdwatching and bird photography requires quite different strategies. So at the moment I still prefer simply watching than taking photos, but it's still satisfying to get some nice shots during birdwatching. Recently I found it can take pretty amazing photos in great lighting conditions, and when the bird cooperates. I will first fully exploit the budget camera I have now, to understand its limits and try to realize its full potential.
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I want to be able to obtain good quality pictures of birds, either in flight or in their natural habitat, for identification purposes and for their documentation also.
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I feel the pictures that are highest quality of the bird itself more than the background is what I’m leaning more towards. I like the bird to be the center of attention. For me alone, being fairly new to birding, I find bird identification most important over getting crazy shots. To enjoy the animal just being itself and having it clear and pleasant to the human eye is my main focus and goal. I realize I like shots taken by Canon, with the f stop of around 5.6 and a focus length around 600.
Dave

As a child I always wanted to make pictures like this 🙂 took me 40 more years to finally start the journey.

